Heated Driveway – Melt That Snow

Staying safe and slip-free is the number one reason to install a heated driveway snow melting system. The main reason people have heated driveways is for safety. Many driveways are impossibly steep and homeowners are afraid of the fall hazard presented by ice build-up on drives and walks.

Benefits
  • Added home resale value
  • No salt or chemicals meaning less environmental damage
  • No driveway damaging snow plows
  • No need to own a noisy and space consuming snow thrower
  • No more physically strenuous snow shoveling
How Heated Driveway Systems Work

The two popular types of heated driveway systems both work by generating radiant heat underneath the driveway keeping the pavement warm during snowstorms.

Generally, two types of snow melting systems are available for use in exterior slabs ,  hydronic snow melt and electric snow melt systems.

Both rely on four key components to turn the entire slab surface into a radiant heat source.

  • A heating element, which is embedded in the slab.
  • Sensors to detect outdoor air temperatures and moisture.
  • A power source.
  • A controller to tie the heating element, sensors, and power source together.
The Technology

The first method uses a series of tubes and pumps to move hot water directly underneath the driveway, warming it up. The second heating method uses an electric current to generate heat on a wire or across a mat, in almost exactly the same manner as most indoor floor-heating systems.

Heated driveways are actually a radiant heat flooring system, which can be installed both indoors and out. For outdoor use, radiant floor systems are quite beneficial to those who live in snowy climates. When temperatures drop, heated water and antifreeze are pumped into the tubing, melting any snow that collects on your driveway. From the comfort of your home, you can flip a switch and watch the snow melt away. It’s also possible to automate the whole process. Sensors detect when the system needs to turn on so that you arrive home to a snow free driveway.

If you want a heated driveway, you don’t necessarily need to install a whole new driveway. Sometimes the tubing can be run under your current one.

Many factors influence whether you need to have the driveway replaced including time of year, soil compaction, trees in proximity, etc. Replacing the driveway ensures that the heated driveway system has been installed correctly.

Most underground systems are constructed with the ability to melt snow at a rate of about one inch per hour.

MackLand, LLC in Denver and in Wauconda will help you decide if an electric or hydronic heated driveway system is right for you.

Hydrangeas – Plant – Grow – Care

When embarking on a landscape architecture exercise hydrangeas are a popular choice due to their captivating display of beautiful flowers and foliage.

Hydrangeas come in types that can flourish in sun or shade. They offer huge bouquets of clustered flowers, in various arrangements from mophead to lacecap from summer through fall. Varieties of hydrangea differ in size of plant and flower shape, flower color, and blooming time.

Although there are many types of hydrangeas, most can be grown in full sun or partial shade. Keep in mind, however, that many hydrangeas do not like extremely hot conditions, so try to locate them in an area where they can enjoy some afternoon shade. While they can be grown in a wide range of soils, hydrangeas typically prefer rich, moist soil that drains easily. Amending the soil with compost prior to planting could be helpful.

Hydrangea planting should be performed in spring once the threat of frost has passed. Water thoroughly after planting. You can also add a layer of mulch following hydrangea planting.

The colors of some hydrangeas—especially mophead and lacecap—can change color based on the soil pH, which affects relative availability of aluminum ions. Acidic soils with a pH of less than 5.5 produce blue flowers; soils with a pH greater than 5.5 product pink flowers. White flowers are not affected by pH.

PLANTING

  • VERY IMPORTANT: Choose a location where your hydrangea can reach its full size without pruning. For normal sized hydrangeas, expect the plant to reach at least 4 ft. X 4 ft. Hydrangeas are almost impossible to keep pruned to a smaller size than they ultimately wish to grow.
    They prefer full sun in the morning, with some afternoon shade; however, many will grow and bloom in partial shade. This is especially true for the bigleaf hydrangeas
  • The further north one lives the more sun hydrangeas need and can withstand. While mophead hydrangeas can grow well in all-day sun in Chicago, they would struggle to survive in afternoon sun in Atlanta.
  • Plant in well-drained soil! If soil is heavy, add roughage such as pine bark mulch (Make sure it’s ground BARK not ground WOOD).
  • Do not over water, esp. in clay soil. This can lead to root rot.
  • Do not plant too deeply. Plant at the same depth the hydrangea was planted in the pot.
  • Plant in early summer or fall.
  • Transplant a hydrangea when it has become dormant and has lost all of its leaves (late fall or winter).

CARE

  • For the first year or two after planting and during any drought, be sure hydrangeas get plenty of water. Leaves will wilt if the soil is too dry.
  • If your soil is rich, you may not need to fertilize hydrangeas. If your soil is light or sandy, it’s best to feed the plants once a year in late winter or spring. Too much fertilizer encourages leafy growth at the expense of blooms.
  • In the fall, cover plants to a depth of at least 18 inches with bark mulch, leaves, pine needles, or straw. If at all possible, cover the entire plant, tip included, by making cages out of snow fencing or chicken wire, and loosely filling the cages with leaves. (Do not use maple leaves, as they will break down too quickly.)

This is a very basic introductory guide for both Wauconda and Denver locations. Look for follow up articles on pruning, color change, drying, fertilizing, transplanting etc. etc.

 

Garden Checklist – June

June is about half way through already and although a little belated it’s not too late to review your garden checklist as summer approaches.

Annual and Perennial Care

Remove spent blooms of annuals and some perennials to encourage new flower formation. Stake tall perennials and continue to tie annual and perennial vines to supports. Continue to apply repellents to emerging summer-blooming lilies, if rabbits and deer have been a problem in the past.

Fertilize annuals in containers, baskets, and window boxes with a quarter-strength balanced fertilizer every seven to ten days. Always water the plants before adding liquid fertilizer.

Fertilize bulbs with a 9-9-6 slow-release fertilizer if you did not do so at planting time. Mark the spots with small stakes to repeat fertilizer application in the fall (when plants are not visible).

Continue to remove yellowing leaves of summer-flowering bulbs.

Tall, floppy plants such as chrysanthemums, asters, and tall sedums can be cut back by as much as half or pinched to regulate their height.

Sow seeds of biennials, such as hollyhock, directly into the garden this month for next year’s bloom. Mark the area carefully to avoid accidentally disturbing the seeds.

Monitor plants, especially succulent the new growth, for insects. Infested plants can be hosed down to remove small insect populations. Don’t apply chemical treatments if ladybugs or other predator insects are present.

Mite activity often increases in hot, dry weather. Symptoms include stippled foliage which can be removed from plant. Refrain from applying chemical miticides which will also kill beneficial mites and increase mite populations. Consider releasing predators such as ladybugs or praying mantis to consume unwanted mites.

Lawn Care

Cool-season turf-grass should be mowed to a height of 2 to 3 inches. This height can be raised during hot, dry periods or when turf is stressed due to disease, insects, or drought. A general rule of thumb is not to remove more than one-third of turf at one time.

Seed bare areas of turf with an appropriate grass seed mixture. Keep newly seeded lawns moist until seeds germinate. Do not allow the grass to become overly dry for the first year and limit excessive foot traffic. Begin mowing when the grass reaches a height of approximate 4 inches.

Do not fertilize your lawn in hot weather. The best time to fertilize is fall.

Established turf requires approximately 1 inch of water per week to keep grass green and actively growing. Lawns that are allowed to become dormant and brown usually recover nicely as precipitation increases in the fall. It is best to water early in the day, which will decrease the occurrence of turf disease.

Fruit, Vegetable, and Herb Care

Harvest peas, raspberries, and all cool-season lettuces and vegetables as they ripen.

If squash vine borer has been a problem in your garden, cover small transplants of squash, cucumbers, and zucchini with row covers to prevent moths from laying eggs on vines. Remove row covers when plants begin to flower. Consider planting resistant varieties next year.

Pinch top growth of herbs to encourage branching and keep them from flowering. Snip or cut off sprigs of herbs to use in cooking all season.

A fascinating nature project for families is to plant dill or fennel to attract swallowtail butterflies to lay their eggs. Watch for tiny eggs to develop into plump caterpillars that will feed on the herb foliage before pupating into butterflies.

Plant pumpkins at the first of the month. Large varieties require a 100-day growing season. If you gently carve names in developing pumpkins, the letters will enlarge as pumpkins grow.

Stake or cage tomatoes and peppers as they continue to grow.

Mulch your vegetable garden with straw to retain moisture.

Indoor Plant Care

Amaryllis plants should be placed in morning sun (preferably outdoors), watered regularly, and fertilized every 2 to 3 weeks with a general purpose, liquid fertilizer.

General Garden Care

Apply 1 to 2 inches of leaf mulch on flower beds and around trees, keeping mulch away from the trunks. Mulch conserves moisture, protects plant roots, suppresses weeds, and regulates soil temperature. Make sure all trees, shrubs, perennials, and roses receive 1 inch of water per week. If Mother Nature does not provide this amount, it is best to water deeply once per week rather than water shallowly several times per week.

Tree and Shrub Care

Pinch off terminal growth buds on rhododendrons to increase next year’s buds.

Prune all spring-flowering shrubs, if necessary, immediately after they flower.

Evergreens, such as boxwood or yew, can be lightly pruned after the new growth fills in to maintain a formal shape.

Rose Care

One application of fertilizer in the spring is usually sufficient for species roses and shrub roses. All other roses should be given their second application of a well-balanced fertilizer in mid-June or after their initial bloom period.

Monitor roses for black spot and other fungal leaf diseases. Remove infected leaves immediately and begin a preventative spray program with an approved fungicide at labeled intervals.

Deadhead hybrid tea roses as soon as flowers fade. Many shrub roses are self-cleaning and don’t require deadheading. When in doubt, lightly prune old blossoms to keep plant looking attractive.

Same guidelines apply in both Wauconda and Denver areas.

Credit to the Chicago Botanic Garden

Liability of owning a pool – worth it or not?

The liability of owning a pool must not be taken lightly.

A backyard pool can be a lot of fun, but it does not come without some liability issues that homeowners should be aware of. Safety devices and additional insurance coverage can help lessen the financial risk associated with having a pool in your backyard. If you have had your pool for some time or are about to purchase a home that has a pool and are concerned about all of these liability issues then you can always consider having your pool professionally removed and having the newly acquired real estate beautifully landscaped.

Homeowner Liability

Liability of owning a pool for the homeowner stems from negligence, or the failure to do what a reasonable person would have done under similar circumstances. Injuries resulting from a lack of security around a pool or a failure to properly maintain the pool in good condition may result in homeowner liability because homeowners with pools are expected to protect guests and prevent unwanted visitors.  If a homeowner is negligent in keeping the pool area safe and inaccessible, then he could be liable for injuries suffered in or around the pool.

In addition, most states, cities, and towns have statutes regarding the construction and maintenance of residential swimming pools, including requirements for special covers, locked gates, and fencing. Though these restrictions may seem elaborate, failure to comply with ordinances can invite injury and may make proving liability easier because failing to comply with protective law makes a homeowner strictly liable – meaning there is no need to prove negligence. For more information, be sure to contact a local attorney with experience in homeowner liability.

Liability of owning a pool Slip and Fall 

Due to the high risk of slip and fall accidents in slippery areas surrounding a swimming pool, owners must take reasonable care to provide non-slip surfaces and to take other measures to prevent accidents such as warning guests of an unsafe condition or cleaning up standing puddles of water on the pool deck.  To establish negligence in a slip and fall case, you will have to show either that the pool owner negligently created the puddle, or negligently failed to remedy the puddle after notice that it was there. Negligence law requires attorneys, judges, and juries to consider all the factors surrounding the slip and fall injury that occurs on a pool deck, however, the pool owner will usually be at a disadvantage due to the high standard of care they are held to.

Attractive Nuisance and Trespassers

Typically a homeowner has no liability for injuries suffered by trespassers on his property, however, attractive nuisance is a legal loophole in the traditional liability approach to trespassers which states that a homeowner can be responsible for injuries to a young trespasser if there is an object on the property which attracts children. Playground equipment and pools are the most common examples of attractive nuisances, and in terms of swimming pool accident liability the homeowner is typically liable for injuries to children unless it is physically impossible for the child to reach the pool.  If your child is injured or drowns in a neighbors pool, the homeowner may be liable for the full extent of the damages under the legal theory of attractive nuisance.  As with any personal injury or wrongful death lawsuits involving children, an experienced attorney should be involved.

Insurance and Liability of owning a pool

While technically a homeowner’s insurance policy may offer coverage for a pool, the truth is that any sort of coverage, even through the most comprehensive policy a homeowner can purchase, is not necessarily going to be enough to protect him should you or your child be seriously hurt in the pool.  Typically pool owners are required to purchase a separate insurance policy for swimming pool liability, or an umbrella policy for the home, which would give them enough coverage for most accidents.  This benefits injured parties because it allows the case to be handled by insurance rather than a lawsuit, however, depending on the nature of the swimming pool accident and the willingness of the insurance company to pay for damages, legal action may be required.

We have all the necessary pool removal equipment in both the Wauconda and Denver areas, get in touch with us.

Read more: http://accident-law.freeadvice.com/accident-law/accident-law/tresspasser-liabilty.htm#ixzz4j4snvuzn
Under Creative Commons License: Attribution

 

Landscaping Mulch

Selecting the Right Landscaping Mulch

There is no one, universal landscaping mulch for everything. There are pros and cons to every mulching material. Whatever the material, mulch needs to stay put to be effective, but should also be easy to remove and apply.

Natural landscaping mulches are very common and are composed of plant matter. Examples include straw, shredded leaves, bark, pine needles or wood chips.

These mulches decompose over time which helps improve the soil but it also means they must be replaced once or twice a year.

Colored mulches are made by adding a dye to a natural mulch. They typically come in colors such as brown, black or red.

Whether you’re using rich black to make your perennial garden pop or soft red to accent your home, colored mulch gives you more flexibility and creativity in your garden.

Shredded or chipped hardwood or bark

Benefits: Effective; attractive; organic.
Drawbacks: Large wood chips may wash away; as the wood decomposes, it pulls nitrogen from the soil. Avoid bargain mulches, which may contain weed seeds.

Sawdust

Benefits: Acidifies the soil for rhododendrons and blueberries; organic.
Drawbacks: Weeds sprout easily. Nitrogen fertilizer may be needed to replace the nitrogen pulled out of the soil to decompose the sawdust. A crusty top forms so it is harder for water to penetrate. Check the sawdust source carefully because it shouldn’t be from treated wood.

Straw

Benefits: Inexpensive; suppresses weeds; good for winter vegetable garden insulation; organic.
Drawbacks: Unattractive; decomposes rapidly; flammable; may contain weed seeds.

Shredded Leaves

Benefits: Free from your own yard; organic.
Drawbacks: Decomposes rapidly; large-leaf species (oaks, maples, sycamores, etc.) need to be shredded first so they don’t form a mat.

Newspaper

Benefits: Inexpensive way to recycle newspapers (use three layers); suppresses weeds; organic.
Drawbacks: Must use another mulch to weigh newsprint down; cannot use slick inserts.

Manure

Benefits: Excellent source of soil nutrients; organic.
Drawbacks: Must be aged at least six months to avoid “burning” plants. Depending on the source, it may have an odor when wet and may harbor weed seeds.

Compost

Benefits: Excellent soil amendment; organic.
Drawbacks: May contain weed seeds.

Grass Clippings

Benefits: Free from your lawn; organic if you don’t use lawn chemicals.
Drawbacks: Best used on the lawn. Use only weed-free, chemically untreated, dry clippings (clippings must be dry because wet grass can form an impenetrable crust).

Pine Needles

Benefits: Inexpensive if you have pines on your property; organic.
Drawbacks: Best for acid-loving trees and shrubs.

Gravel, Crushed Rock, Pebbles, Volcanic Rock

Benefits: Available in wide array of sizes and colors; won’t blow away or decompose.
Drawbacks: Draws heat; difficult to keep clean; difficult to remove. Avoid alkaline limestone rocks near rhododendrons and other acid-loving plants. Must use landscape fabric below rocks so they don’t migrate into the soil. Loose stones may get thrown by lawnmowers; inorganic.

Plastic

Benefits: Effective weed control. Plastic absorbs heat, which raises soil temperature so may be useful in vegetable gardens where warm soil is desired.
Drawbacks: May tear; unattractive. Plastic must be tacked down or held with another mulch. Soil cannot “breathe.” Clear plastic allows weed growth. May retain too much moisture; inorganic.

Landscape Fabric (Geo-textiles)

Benefits: Allows water and air penetration; effective in weed control.
Drawbacks: Unattractive; must be tacked down or held with another mulch. Weeds may grow through fabric cuts and cracks; inorganic.

Shredded Rubber

Benefits: Available in a variety of colors; doesn’t decompose or blow away.
Drawbacks: May be difficult to remove; flammable; inorganic.

Landscaping mulch helps in the control of weeds by cutting off sunlight for weed growth and choking the weeds. However, care should be taken in the choice and application of mulch. Thick mulch may reduce air circulation, result in water-logging especially during rainy seasons, and provide shelter to hibernating insects during winter.

Living with Nature, not against Nature should be the goal of every homeowner. One can easily have a beautiful landscape by conserving water and using recyclable material from ones own yard as landscaping mulch.

There are options to consider, like whether organic or inorganic materials work best for you, and you should understand that poor technique can actually harm your trees, encouraging rot and harm from rodents and insects. Regardless if you are the Denver or Wauconda areas, it’s worth talking with a professional!

Rachio Irrigation – smart sprinklers and controllers

There are a number of companies offering smart sprinklers and irrigation controllers. Here we discuss more about Rachio Irrigation .

Smart sprinklers and irrigation controllers can simplify home lawn and garden care, reduce water consumption, and help farmers and home owners get the most out of their crops and gardens.

Instead of fixed timers, these systems draw on data from sensors, weather forecasts and plant-care databases to determine watering needs and deliver just enough moisture at just the right time. Lower your water bill, and check up on your plants from anywhere in the world using mobile and web apps.

Features

-Instantly take control from anywhere. Rachio Irrigation gives you complete access to adjust your sprinkler system from your Android, iOS and laptop devices.

-Schedules itself. Rachio accesses the latest local weather patterns through your Wi-Fi, and automatically optimizes a watering schedule to the specific needs of your yard.

-Saves you water and money. EPA WaterSense certified smart watering, including automatic rain delays, can save users over 50% of their outdoor water use. Plus, eligible for rebate options up to 100% of retail value.

-Keeps plants healthy. Rachio uses proven cycle-and-soak watering methods to promote healthier plants. A beautiful landscape and a lower water bill are no longer at odds.

-Plays well with others. Rachio integrates with most connected home platforms for greater visibility and control.

-Designed for the future. Cloud-based software allows for constant updates, expanded capabilities, and integration with new platforms.

The Hardware

Easy install and setup.

Under 30 minutes with no special tools or expertise required. Quickly connect to your home’s Wi-Fi.

Replaces almost any controller.

Works with your current sprinkler system, up to 16 zones.

Water directly from controller.

Run zones right from your controller. Manual access allows for local control.

Make it waterproof.

Our optional outdoor enclosure protects your controller in all-weather situations. Hardwire option included.

The App

Remote control.

Start, stop and change your sprinklers from your phone or computer.

Real-time notifications.

The Rachio app will let you know what’s happening with your yard, from rain delays to faulty valves.

Detailed water usage reporting.

Know how much water you’re using in your yard.

Share access with others.

Option to share full or limited access with your irrigation professional.

Scheduling

Customized for each zone.

Get a tailored schedule based on specific plant types, soil types, nozzles and sun exposure.

Any schedule you want.

Specify times and dates for when your schedules should run.

Eliminate runoff.

Smart Cycle breaks up your schedule into smaller periods to maximize soil absorption rate.

Certified and tested.

EPA WaterSense Certified and SWAT tested, Rachio is proven to save water while keeping your plants healthy.

Weather

Auto adjust with Weather Intelligence ™.

Waters automatically based on past, present and future weather, plus seasonal adjustments. No need to worry about updating schedules.

Never water in the rain.

Rachio connects to a network of thousands of weather stations to get the latest weather.

Proactive rain skipping.

Automatically skips watering due to forecasted rain, instead of just reacting to real-time rain.

Cold weather delays.

Automatically skips watering due to low temperatures.

Contact us for more information about Rachio Irrigation solutions in the Denver and Wauconda areas.

Pool Removal – The Real Estate Value

Whether or not to remove a pool is a very common question. In many instances, pool removal can in fact increase the value of one’s property.

Here is a list of factors that may have a negative effect on your home’s value that should lead you to consider pool removal.

  • If the pool takes up 30% or more of the backyard.
  • If the pool is over 30 years old and is in need of repair
  • If the pool does not have a safety gate around it.
  • If the pool is made from a vinyl liner.
  • If the geographic area the pool is in has less than 3 months of “swimming weather”
  • If the pool is the only one in the neighborhood.
  • If your area is currently experiencing a drought

Unless your geographic location allows for 6 or more solid months of swimming weather, your pool is less than 15 years old, and most of the neighborhood has a pool, you can expect your pool to decrease your property value.

Some of the exceptions to your pool decreasing your property value would be if your house is considered a luxury home, many of your neighbors have a pool, and the pool is completely enclosed, including a secure safety gate.

Many folks just don’t like the risks involved in owning a pool. Therefore trying to make your property more attractive to potential buyers, pool removal could be your best option.

Removing your pool also allows your property to have more outdoor green space. An uncluttered yard increases your property’s potential; thus increasing your property’s value.

Swimming pools are nice to enjoy at a friend’s or neighbor’s house, but can be a hassle to have at your own home. Many potential home buyers view swimming pools as dangerous, expensive to maintain and a lawsuit waiting to happen. Families with young children in particular may turn down an otherwise perfect house because of the pool (and the fear of a child going in the pool unsupervised). In fact, a would-be buyer’s offer may be contingent on the home seller dismantling an above ground pool or filling in an in-ground pool. The one exception could be if having a pool is standard in your neighborhood, as it can be in warm states such as California, Arizona, Florida and Hawaii.

An in-ground pool costs anywhere from $30,000 to more than $100,000, and additional yearly maintenance expenses are part of the package. That’s a significant amount of money that might never be recouped if and when the house is sold. Put one in for your own pleasure, perhaps, but know that it could cost you when you sell your home.

Personal Experience

Many pools that we remove in the Denver, CO and Wauconda, IL areas are related to real estate transactions.

  1. A home that was on the market for many months just could not attract any offers. The pool which was poorly placed was removed and the resulting area professionally landscaped. The house then went into escrow within weeks of being put back onto the market.
  2. Another home with a pool that needed to be rented out. In order to rent the home the insurance company wanted to increase the premium drastically and install a gate that was going to cost $3,500. In addition, several renters expressed hesitation due to the pool and the homeowners would be responsible for maintenance and repair. They decided the best course of action was pool removal.
  3. An older couple had lived in their home for many years. They were beginning to find that maintenance costs were getting too high. They were thinking of selling the house. They had never considered pool removal until they did the math and realized the cost to remove the pool would be far less than the cost relating to buying another home.

Here are just a few ideas what to do with all of the newly created space.

Install a smart irrigation system
Use a robotic mower to take of all the new lawn
Install  a garden train to keep the kids (old and young) occupied

Make sure to read our blog articles for many more idea.

Looking forward to hearing from you.