Hydrangeas – Plant – Grow – Care

When embarking on a landscape architecture exercise hydrangeas are a popular choice due to their captivating display of beautiful flowers and foliage.

Hydrangeas come in types that can flourish in sun or shade. They offer huge bouquets of clustered flowers, in various arrangements from mophead to lacecap from summer through fall. Varieties of hydrangea differ in size of plant and flower shape, flower color, and blooming time.

Although there are many types of hydrangeas, most can be grown in full sun or partial shade. Keep in mind, however, that many hydrangeas do not like extremely hot conditions, so try to locate them in an area where they can enjoy some afternoon shade. While they can be grown in a wide range of soils, hydrangeas typically prefer rich, moist soil that drains easily. Amending the soil with compost prior to planting could be helpful.

Hydrangea planting should be performed in spring once the threat of frost has passed. Water thoroughly after planting. You can also add a layer of mulch following hydrangea planting.

The colors of some hydrangeas—especially mophead and lacecap—can change color based on the soil pH, which affects relative availability of aluminum ions. Acidic soils with a pH of less than 5.5 produce blue flowers; soils with a pH greater than 5.5 product pink flowers. White flowers are not affected by pH.

PLANTING

  • VERY IMPORTANT: Choose a location where your hydrangea can reach its full size without pruning. For normal sized hydrangeas, expect the plant to reach at least 4 ft. X 4 ft. Hydrangeas are almost impossible to keep pruned to a smaller size than they ultimately wish to grow.
    They prefer full sun in the morning, with some afternoon shade; however, many will grow and bloom in partial shade. This is especially true for the bigleaf hydrangeas
  • The further north one lives the more sun hydrangeas need and can withstand. While mophead hydrangeas can grow well in all-day sun in Chicago, they would struggle to survive in afternoon sun in Atlanta.
  • Plant in well-drained soil! If soil is heavy, add roughage such as pine bark mulch (Make sure it’s ground BARK not ground WOOD).
  • Do not over water, esp. in clay soil. This can lead to root rot.
  • Do not plant too deeply. Plant at the same depth the hydrangea was planted in the pot.
  • Plant in early summer or fall.
  • Transplant a hydrangea when it has become dormant and has lost all of its leaves (late fall or winter).

CARE

  • For the first year or two after planting and during any drought, be sure hydrangeas get plenty of water. Leaves will wilt if the soil is too dry.
  • If your soil is rich, you may not need to fertilize hydrangeas. If your soil is light or sandy, it’s best to feed the plants once a year in late winter or spring. Too much fertilizer encourages leafy growth at the expense of blooms.
  • In the fall, cover plants to a depth of at least 18 inches with bark mulch, leaves, pine needles, or straw. If at all possible, cover the entire plant, tip included, by making cages out of snow fencing or chicken wire, and loosely filling the cages with leaves. (Do not use maple leaves, as they will break down too quickly.)

This is a very basic introductory guide for both Wauconda and Denver locations. Look for follow up articles on pruning, color change, drying, fertilizing, transplanting etc. etc.

 

Garden Checklist – June

June is about half way through already and although a little belated it’s not too late to review your garden checklist as summer approaches.

Annual and Perennial Care

Remove spent blooms of annuals and some perennials to encourage new flower formation. Stake tall perennials and continue to tie annual and perennial vines to supports. Continue to apply repellents to emerging summer-blooming lilies, if rabbits and deer have been a problem in the past.

Fertilize annuals in containers, baskets, and window boxes with a quarter-strength balanced fertilizer every seven to ten days. Always water the plants before adding liquid fertilizer.

Fertilize bulbs with a 9-9-6 slow-release fertilizer if you did not do so at planting time. Mark the spots with small stakes to repeat fertilizer application in the fall (when plants are not visible).

Continue to remove yellowing leaves of summer-flowering bulbs.

Tall, floppy plants such as chrysanthemums, asters, and tall sedums can be cut back by as much as half or pinched to regulate their height.

Sow seeds of biennials, such as hollyhock, directly into the garden this month for next year’s bloom. Mark the area carefully to avoid accidentally disturbing the seeds.

Monitor plants, especially succulent the new growth, for insects. Infested plants can be hosed down to remove small insect populations. Don’t apply chemical treatments if ladybugs or other predator insects are present.

Mite activity often increases in hot, dry weather. Symptoms include stippled foliage which can be removed from plant. Refrain from applying chemical miticides which will also kill beneficial mites and increase mite populations. Consider releasing predators such as ladybugs or praying mantis to consume unwanted mites.

Lawn Care

Cool-season turf-grass should be mowed to a height of 2 to 3 inches. This height can be raised during hot, dry periods or when turf is stressed due to disease, insects, or drought. A general rule of thumb is not to remove more than one-third of turf at one time.

Seed bare areas of turf with an appropriate grass seed mixture. Keep newly seeded lawns moist until seeds germinate. Do not allow the grass to become overly dry for the first year and limit excessive foot traffic. Begin mowing when the grass reaches a height of approximate 4 inches.

Do not fertilize your lawn in hot weather. The best time to fertilize is fall.

Established turf requires approximately 1 inch of water per week to keep grass green and actively growing. Lawns that are allowed to become dormant and brown usually recover nicely as precipitation increases in the fall. It is best to water early in the day, which will decrease the occurrence of turf disease.

Fruit, Vegetable, and Herb Care

Harvest peas, raspberries, and all cool-season lettuces and vegetables as they ripen.

If squash vine borer has been a problem in your garden, cover small transplants of squash, cucumbers, and zucchini with row covers to prevent moths from laying eggs on vines. Remove row covers when plants begin to flower. Consider planting resistant varieties next year.

Pinch top growth of herbs to encourage branching and keep them from flowering. Snip or cut off sprigs of herbs to use in cooking all season.

A fascinating nature project for families is to plant dill or fennel to attract swallowtail butterflies to lay their eggs. Watch for tiny eggs to develop into plump caterpillars that will feed on the herb foliage before pupating into butterflies.

Plant pumpkins at the first of the month. Large varieties require a 100-day growing season. If you gently carve names in developing pumpkins, the letters will enlarge as pumpkins grow.

Stake or cage tomatoes and peppers as they continue to grow.

Mulch your vegetable garden with straw to retain moisture.

Indoor Plant Care

Amaryllis plants should be placed in morning sun (preferably outdoors), watered regularly, and fertilized every 2 to 3 weeks with a general purpose, liquid fertilizer.

General Garden Care

Apply 1 to 2 inches of leaf mulch on flower beds and around trees, keeping mulch away from the trunks. Mulch conserves moisture, protects plant roots, suppresses weeds, and regulates soil temperature. Make sure all trees, shrubs, perennials, and roses receive 1 inch of water per week. If Mother Nature does not provide this amount, it is best to water deeply once per week rather than water shallowly several times per week.

Tree and Shrub Care

Pinch off terminal growth buds on rhododendrons to increase next year’s buds.

Prune all spring-flowering shrubs, if necessary, immediately after they flower.

Evergreens, such as boxwood or yew, can be lightly pruned after the new growth fills in to maintain a formal shape.

Rose Care

One application of fertilizer in the spring is usually sufficient for species roses and shrub roses. All other roses should be given their second application of a well-balanced fertilizer in mid-June or after their initial bloom period.

Monitor roses for black spot and other fungal leaf diseases. Remove infected leaves immediately and begin a preventative spray program with an approved fungicide at labeled intervals.

Deadhead hybrid tea roses as soon as flowers fade. Many shrub roses are self-cleaning and don’t require deadheading. When in doubt, lightly prune old blossoms to keep plant looking attractive.

Same guidelines apply in both Wauconda and Denver areas.

Credit to the Chicago Botanic Garden

Liability of owning a pool – worth it or not?

The liability of owning a pool must not be taken lightly.

A backyard pool can be a lot of fun, but it does not come without some liability issues that homeowners should be aware of. Safety devices and additional insurance coverage can help lessen the financial risk associated with having a pool in your backyard. If you have had your pool for some time or are about to purchase a home that has a pool and are concerned about all of these liability issues then you can always consider having your pool professionally removed and having the newly acquired real estate beautifully landscaped.

Homeowner Liability

Liability of owning a pool for the homeowner stems from negligence, or the failure to do what a reasonable person would have done under similar circumstances. Injuries resulting from a lack of security around a pool or a failure to properly maintain the pool in good condition may result in homeowner liability because homeowners with pools are expected to protect guests and prevent unwanted visitors.  If a homeowner is negligent in keeping the pool area safe and inaccessible, then he could be liable for injuries suffered in or around the pool.

In addition, most states, cities, and towns have statutes regarding the construction and maintenance of residential swimming pools, including requirements for special covers, locked gates, and fencing. Though these restrictions may seem elaborate, failure to comply with ordinances can invite injury and may make proving liability easier because failing to comply with protective law makes a homeowner strictly liable – meaning there is no need to prove negligence. For more information, be sure to contact a local attorney with experience in homeowner liability.

Liability of owning a pool Slip and Fall 

Due to the high risk of slip and fall accidents in slippery areas surrounding a swimming pool, owners must take reasonable care to provide non-slip surfaces and to take other measures to prevent accidents such as warning guests of an unsafe condition or cleaning up standing puddles of water on the pool deck.  To establish negligence in a slip and fall case, you will have to show either that the pool owner negligently created the puddle, or negligently failed to remedy the puddle after notice that it was there. Negligence law requires attorneys, judges, and juries to consider all the factors surrounding the slip and fall injury that occurs on a pool deck, however, the pool owner will usually be at a disadvantage due to the high standard of care they are held to.

Attractive Nuisance and Trespassers

Typically a homeowner has no liability for injuries suffered by trespassers on his property, however, attractive nuisance is a legal loophole in the traditional liability approach to trespassers which states that a homeowner can be responsible for injuries to a young trespasser if there is an object on the property which attracts children. Playground equipment and pools are the most common examples of attractive nuisances, and in terms of swimming pool accident liability the homeowner is typically liable for injuries to children unless it is physically impossible for the child to reach the pool.  If your child is injured or drowns in a neighbors pool, the homeowner may be liable for the full extent of the damages under the legal theory of attractive nuisance.  As with any personal injury or wrongful death lawsuits involving children, an experienced attorney should be involved.

Insurance and Liability of owning a pool

While technically a homeowner’s insurance policy may offer coverage for a pool, the truth is that any sort of coverage, even through the most comprehensive policy a homeowner can purchase, is not necessarily going to be enough to protect him should you or your child be seriously hurt in the pool.  Typically pool owners are required to purchase a separate insurance policy for swimming pool liability, or an umbrella policy for the home, which would give them enough coverage for most accidents.  This benefits injured parties because it allows the case to be handled by insurance rather than a lawsuit, however, depending on the nature of the swimming pool accident and the willingness of the insurance company to pay for damages, legal action may be required.

We have all the necessary pool removal equipment in both the Wauconda and Denver areas, get in touch with us.

Read more: http://accident-law.freeadvice.com/accident-law/accident-law/tresspasser-liabilty.htm#ixzz4j4snvuzn
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